web analytics
September 23, 2014 / 28 Elul, 5774
At a Glance
Sections
Sponsored Post
Meir Panim with Soldiers 5774 Roundup: Year of Relief and Service for Israel’s Needy

Meir Panim implements programs that serve Israel’s neediest populations with respect and dignity. Meir Panim also coordinated care packages for families in the South during the Gaza War.



Home » Sections » Food »

Italian With A Kosher Accent


Twenty years ago only a handful of kosher wines were produced in Italy and, to tell the truth, most of those were pretty mediocre. Starting about five years ago, however, as those who keep kashrut became increasingly aware of quality wines, Italian producers responded and enormous strides have been made. The result: kosher wine, much of which is worthy of our attention, is now made in every wine-producing region in the country. Perhaps the most exciting recent step in kosher Italian wines is the introduction of truly excellent wines from the Falesco winery in the Umbria region.

 

The following are my recent tasting notes for a collection of kosher Italian wines, those recommended at different levels. As to my scores, those are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines earning 96-100 points are truly great wines; those attaining 90-95 points are exceptional in every way; and those earning 85-89 points are very good to excellent and highly recommended. Wines that are awarded 80-84 points are recommended but without enthusiasm; scores of 70-79 indicate wines that are at least somewhat faulted; and those earning less than 70 points are not recommended. As always, prices are based on an average of three stores and Internet buying sites available in the greater New York City metropolitan area.

 

Falesco, Macillano, Umbria, 2005: A near twin to the non-kosher edition. Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, those showing gripping but gentle tannins and spicy oak, both now integrating nicely to show red and blackcurrants, wild berry and licorice notes, those lingering very nicely indeed. Drinking now-2105. $80. Score: 92.

 

Borgo Reale, Pinot Noir, Puglia, 2009: Ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. Opens to reveal aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and cassis, all lingering nicely on a lightly spicy finish. Drink now-2013. $14. Score: 88.

 

Borgo Reale, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzi, 2008: Medium-bodied, with light tannins and a fresh blackcurrant personality along with notes of vanilla and minerals on the finish. Drink now. $12. Score: 85.

 

Borgo Reale, Chianti Classico, Vespertino, Tuscany, 2007: Dark ruby in color, medium-bodied, with chunky, country-style tannins. Opens to reveal red berries, cassis and notes of chocolate. Given time to open in the glass a pleasant little wine to match pizzas and pasta dishes. Drink now. $15. Score: 85.

 

Borgo Reale, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, 2007: A wine with a split personality for it opens light- to medium-bodied with soft tannins to highlight raspberry, red cherry and red currant fruits, goes on to a dramatic change in revealing ever-increasing tannins and blackcurrant and purple plum fruits. In both stages of its personality, hints of earthy minerals and what at one moment feels like baking chocolate and at another cigar tobacco. Easy to drink, and best matched with small cuts of beef or lamb. Past its peak. Drink up. $12. Score: 84.

 

Monte Olivo, Opinioni, Umbria Rosso, 2005: A medium- to full-bodied blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Soft, near-sweet tannins highlight lightly spicy aromas and flavors of currants and blackberries, those matched by a hint of cured cigar tobacco and dark chocolate. Round and appealing. Drink up. $15. Score: 86.

 

Cantina Gabriele, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lazio, 2008: Garnet toward royal purple, medium-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and good balancing acidity. On the nose and palate wild berries, raspberries and cassis, those supported by hints of pepper and Oriental spices. Drink now. $11. Score: 85.

 

Cantina Gabriele, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, 2007: Dark ruby, medium- to full-bodied with gently gripping tannins parting to make way for currant, wild berry and spicy aromas and flavors. Drink now. $13. Score: 84.

 

Cantina Gabriele, Chianti, Tuscany, 2008: Dark ruby, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins opening to show appealing cherry and wild berry fruits on a light herbal background. Drink up. $15. Score: 84.

 

Sentieri Ebraici, Dona Gracia, Marche, 2008: A light- to medium-bodied white wine made entirely from Trebbiano grapes. Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, with fresh aromas and flavors of citrus and tropical fruits on a background of Mediterranean herbs. Drink up. $13. Score: 85.

 

Sentieri Ebraici, del Vecchio, Marche, 2008: Ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied, made entirely from Sangiovese grapes, soft, round and red with aromas and flavors of red berries, plums and cherries. Not typical to the variety, but an easy-to-drink quaffer. Drink now. $12. Score: 84.

 

Castello di Cesare, Rosso, Lazio, 2007: Dark ruby in color, an unoaked blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Medium-bodied, with almost unfelt tannins showing a basic berry-cherry personality. A simple but pleasant enough entry-level wine. Drink up. $7. Score: 84.

 

Bartenura, Barolo, Ovadia Estates, Piedmont, 2007: Garnet with tinges of orange, medium- to full-bodied, with chunky tannins and smoky wood that give the wine a countryesque (yes, Virginia, there is such a word) persona. Opens to reveal a generous array of blackberry, plum and currant fruits, those supported by hints of black pepper, porcini mushrooms and earthy minerals. Drink now-2013. $46. Score: 87.

 

Bartenura, Pinot Grigio, Pavia, 2008: The color of damp straw, light- to medium-bodied, with apple, pear and floral notes on a crisply dry background. Simple but pleasant. Drink up. $14. Score: 85.

 

Bartenura, Barbera d’Alba, Ovadia Estates, Piedmont, 2009: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and quite generous acidity, opens to reveal raspberries, cassis and pink grapefruit on the nose and palate. Uncomplicated but clean and pleasant. Drink now. $17. Score: 85.

 

Bartenura, Chianti, Ovadia Estates, Tuscany, 2009: Ruby to garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and an appealing berry, black cherry personality. Not complex but easy to drink. Drink now. $17. Score: 84.

 

Rashi, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, 2006: Medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and fine acidity that highlights wild berry and cherry fruits, those supported by notes of spicy oak. Drinking nicely now but not for further cellaring. $22. Score: 85.

 

Rashi, Barolo, Piedmont, 2006: Dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, with gripping tannins and a light animal aroma that arises when the wine is first poured, those receding to reveal almost compote-like berry, black cherry and currant fruits. Made from traditional Nebbiolo grapes but hardly representative of traditional Barolo. Drink up. $50. Score: 84.

 

Rashi, Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont 2007: Light, semi-sweet and lightly frizzante, showing appealing pear, green apple and citrus notes. Not complex but lively and refreshing. Drink up. $16. Score: 84.

 

Santero, Moscato, Primo-V, Puglia, n.v.: Generously sweet and floral, with good balancing acidity to keep it lively. On the nose and palate kiwi, guava and papaya fruits. A pleasant quaffer when served well chilled. Drink now. $7. Score: 84.

 

Daniel Rogov is the world’s premier kosher wine critic and the author of the annual “Rogov’s Guide to Israeli Wines” and “Rogov’s Guide to Kosher Wines.” He can be reached by e-mail at drogov@cheerful.com.

About the Author:


If you don't see your comment after publishing it, refresh the page.

Our comments section is intended for meaningful responses and debates in a civilized manner. We ask that you respect the fact that we are a religious Jewish website and avoid inappropriate language at all cost.

If you promote any foreign religions, gods or messiahs, lies about Israel, anti-Semitism, or advocate violence (except against terrorists), your permission to comment may be revoked.

No Responses to “Italian With A Kosher Accent”

Comments are closed.

SocialTwist Tell-a-Friend

Current Top Story
Yamam Hebron Shootout
Israel SWAT Team Exchanging Fire with Hamas Kidnappers in Hebron [video]
Latest Sections Stories
Calmer Times. Breslov chassidim on erev Rosh Hashanah in 2012 at the grave of Rav Nachman in Uman.

As optimistic as Menachem Rosenberg is – and he said he is going to Uman – he’s sure that this year, most of the travelers will not tour other religious sites or places in Ukraine.

Three sets of three-day Yomim Tovim can seem overwhelming – especially when we are trying to stay healthy.

Plotkin-092614

Is a missed opportunity to do a mitzvah considered a sin?

The sounds and scents of the kitchen are cozy, familiar, but loud in the silence.

Everyone has a weakness. For some people it is the inability to walk past a sales rack without dropping a few hundred dollars. For others, it’s the inability to keep their house organized.

Not enjoying saying no, I often succumbed to requests viewing them as demands I couldn’t refuse.

His entire life was dedicated to Torah and he became a pivotal figure in the transmittal of the Oral Torah to the next generation.

When you don’t have anyone else to turn to… that’s when you’re tied to Hashem the closest.

While we all go to restaurants for a good meal, it is dessert, that final taste that lingers in your mouth, that is the crown jewel of any dining experience and Six Thirteen’s offerings did not disappoint.

Today, fifty years and six million (!) people later, Israel is truly a different world.

There will always be items that don’t freeze well – salads and some rice- or potato-based dishes – so you need to leave time to prepare or cook them closer to Yom Tov and ensure there is enough room in the refrigerator to store them.

In Uzbekistan, in the early twentieth century, it was the women who wore the pants.

More Articles from Daniel Rogov

Like Cinderella, wines based on the Merlot grape have too often been forced by their older and better- established sisters to sit in a corner, just a bit ashamed to make a public appearance.

Like Cinderella, wines based on the Merlot grape have too often been forced by their older and better- established sisters to sit in a corner, just a bit ashamed to make a public appearance.

If you’re located in the Northern Hemisphere, July signals the time of year when the weather can be hot enough to make you both thirsty and a bit more than uncomfortable. Our minds go to the efficiency of the air-conditioning in our homes, automobiles, and offices, and our palates take us to dishes that are light and not infrequently intentionally served cold. When we think of wine it is most logical for our thoughts to turn to white wines for, in addition to being served well chilled, those indeed tend to be crisper and more refreshing than reds.

There are two popular wine-related beliefs making the rounds these days, both of which deserve to be put to rest because they are nothing more than pure and unadulterated nonsense. The first of these would have us believe that men are better qualified to taste wine than women, and the second that some wines are more appropriate for men and others for women.

No one has ever said that truly fine wines are going to be found at bargain prices. Such wines, like luxury automobiles, designer handbags, custom-made jewelry and first-class international flights can, in fact, be quite dear. While it is true that most of us will rarely, if ever, buy Lamborghini automobiles and will most probably not approach Gucci to custom design a handbag for us, there is no valid reason to avoid, at least from time-to-time, buying the best wines available.

Bruce Cohn, manager of the rock band The Doobie Brothers, purchased his Sonoma County winery in 1974, and since then has been equally well known for his olive oil and his philanthropy as for his wine. Cohn seems to have done a fine job of precisely what a family-owned boutique operation should be doing, namely creating high quality wines with a distinct personality. In 2008 Cohn made his first kosher wine, and that wine is well worth the attention of the most devoted of wine lovers. Released in a limited edition of 400 cases (4,800 bottles), the wine is only available directly from the winery and can be ordered by calling 800-330-4064 or by visiting www.brcohn.com. Here’s my tasting note for the wine:

Twenty years ago only a handful of kosher wines were produced in Italy and, to tell the truth, most of those were pretty mediocre. Starting about five years ago, however, as those who keep kashrut became increasingly aware of quality wines, Italian producers responded and enormous strides have been made. The result: kosher wine, much of which is worthy of our attention, is now made in every wine-producing region in the country. Perhaps the most exciting recent step in kosher Italian wines is the introduction of truly excellent wines from the Falesco winery in the Umbria region.

For hundreds of years, the wine most often associated with the superior way of life has been Champagne. Attributed a soul, temperament and wit, many Frenchmen are convinced that Champagne can do them no harm, no matter how much they consume. Madame de Pompadour declared that, “it is the only wine that makes a woman more beautiful after drinking.” This delightful beverage is so much a cultural phenomenon in France that a person who dislikes Champagne is pitied or regarded as sick, disabled or depraved.

Printed from: http://www.jewishpress.com/sections/food/italian-with-a-kosher-accent-2/2010/11/03/

Scan this QR code to visit this page online: