web analytics
July 8, 2015 / 21 Tammuz, 5775
At a Glance
Sections
Sponsored Post


Gefilte Fish Gone Hip at The Gefilteria

Eller-011813-gefilte-fish

Artisan gefilte fish.

For some, the phrase seems like an oxymoron. While salmon, chilean sea bass and tilapia may all be in vogue, gefilte fish, the traditional ground fish mixture that is de rigueur in Ashkenazic Jewish households at Shabbos and Yom Tov meals, is like the Henny Youngman of fish: it gets no respect. But if a group of Brooklyn entrepreneurs have their way, that may be about to change as The Gefilteria’s product line makes its way into retail outlets.

The Gefilteria is the brainchild of 28-year-old Jeffrey Yoskowitz, a long time gefilte fish lover, who grew up eating his grandmother, Ruth Markiewicz’s, homemade gefilte fish.

“When she stopped making gefilte fish, we were still able to get a quality product from a nearby store that made Jewish comfort foods,” explained Yoskowitz, who grew up in Basking Ridge, New Jersey. “But the quality of the fish wasn’t consistent and we had what I like to call ‘The Gefilte Fish’ crisis in my family. It never even occurred to me then that I could just make my own.”

But with a background in the food world, which included importing organic food from the Negev as well as working as a pickler at a Jewish farm in Connecticut, Yoskowitz decided that it was time to follow in his grandmother’s footsteps and try his hand at gefilte fish.

“Unfortunately today many look down on gefilte fish, but generations ago it was the high point of many people’s week,” said Yoskowitz. “Gefilte fish became a joke when it was mass produced and stuffed into a jar; in all honesty, they shouldn’t be allowed to call that stuff gefilte fish.”

As Yoskowitz turned his thoughts towards fish making, he teamed up with two friends: Liz Alpern, an experienced cook and food writer who had worked with renowned cookbook author Joan Nathan, and Jackie Lilinshtein, a childhood friend with a strong business background who also shared a fondness for traditional Jewish cooking. Together, the three decided that high quality, fresh gefilte fish would not only change many people’s perception of the often maligned traditional fare but would be a welcome addition to the food world.

“Gefilte fish is an important part of our rich Ashkenazic tradition and I am proud to continue the culinary legacy of my family,” declared Yoskowitz. “Many Ashkenazic foods have peasant origins, as people made do with what they had and made extensive use of fermented foods to last them through the cold winter days. I value those rich traditions, some of which have been lost over the years and we wanted to return to the foods of our ancestors, while at the same time have some fun with those items as well as maintaining the highest standards of freshness and quality.”

Yoskowitz worked with his gefilte fish guru, Grandma Ruth, while Alpern rummaged through her cookbooks and consulted with Joan Nathan as the pair attempted to formulate a recipe that would meet their three criteria: texture, taste and aesthetics. Ultimately they devised a recipe for their fresh gefilte fish loaf which consists of whitefish and pike complemented by a ribbon on salmon running through its center.

“Our whitefish and pike come from the Great Lakes and we use sushi grade salmon, all among the best fish out there,” said Yoskowitz “There is no filler so that we can embrace the freshness of the fish. Our gefilte fish is gluten free and low in calories. It has some sweetness to it but the flavor profile is more complex. I believe in the onion as the staple of Jewish cuisine and that comes out in this product.”

For those who have difficulty embracing the notion of boutique gefilte fish, Yoskowitz offers the following suggestion: “Think of it as a fresh fish terrine.”

In addition to gefilte fish, The Gefilteria also offers several other products including kvass, a live-culture fermented beet drink, which Yoskowitz touts as a pro-biotic with stomach soothing capabilities, russel beets, horseradish and spicy carrot horseradish

“Carrot horseradish is our homage to the carrots traditionally served on gefilte fish,” said Yoskowitz. “Boiled carrots looked like a little yarmulka on top of the fish and never looked nearly as good as our spicy carrot horseradish, which was listed in Time Out New York as one of the top one hundred best products of the 2012. We wanted to carry on the carrot tradition with some newness and freshness. There is no reason Ashkenazic food has to be drab.”

About the Author: Sandy Eller is a freelance writer who writes for numerous websites, newspapers, magazines and many private clients. She can be contacted at sandyeller1@gmail.com.


If you don't see your comment after publishing it, refresh the page.

Our comments section is intended for meaningful responses and debates in a civilized manner. We ask that you respect the fact that we are a religious Jewish website and avoid inappropriate language at all cost.

If you promote any foreign religions, gods or messiahs, lies about Israel, anti-Semitism, or advocate violence (except against terrorists), your permission to comment may be revoked.

No Responses to “Gefilte Fish Gone Hip at The Gefilteria”

Comments are closed.

Current Top Story
jstreet-time
Obama Officials Tout J Street Polls for Jewish Support on Iran Deal
Latest Sections Stories
Grieff-070315

In the face of evil, we can do acts of kindness. We can do good deeds.

Teens-Twenties-logo

I realized that I am an integral part of that man who wished to win – I am also a part of a nation; I felt like I was standing there and shouting, “I won.”

Teens-Twenties-logo

As I powerfully belted out the song, Ani Maamin B’emunah Sheleima – which means “I believe in God with full faith” – a thought suddenly crossed my mind.

Ganz-View-From-Window-logo

I do not suggest abandoning civilization for a pristine desert island or a hilltop in Judea or Samaria.

After diamonds were discovered in South Africa in the mid-1800s, Antwerp regained its prominence as the diamond capital of the world.

Search the Internet for innovative barbeque items and you might just be surprised at what you come across.

Orlando was once a place where people came only to visit and vacation. Now it is home to a burgeoning Torah community, a place Jewish families can be proud to call home.

You’re not seeking perfection. You’re seeking a life that an average person can manage and feel good about. Don’t feel pressure to change everything at once.

The smuggler’s life has been changed forever. He is faced with a major criminal charge. He will probably be sent to prison.

In Culture Shock, readers will also come to identify with a culture from the other end of Orthodox Jewry’s spectrum.

Children with Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) or Executive Function Disorder (EFD) have trouble keeping themselves organized and on-task.

Our Sages have told us exactly how we should act – and how our children should act – in Pirkei Avos, Ethics of the Fathers.

A second supposed difficulty actually becomes a reason to corroborate that Amestris is Esther.

I work with the Bible in one hand and the tools of excavation in the other.

More Articles from Sandy Eller
Sandy-Eller-Consumer-logo

Search the Internet for innovative barbeque items and you might just be surprised at what you come across.

Food-Talk---Eller-logo

The Silver Platter has it all: gorgeous photography, oodles of useful tips and, more importantly, incredible recipes that you will find yourself making again and again.

While there are those who insist they need full-color photos to be truly entranced by a recipe, I suggest you get over that particular requirement because the written word here will draw you in and cause you to salivate as you peruse the recipes scattered throughout The Well-Spiced Life (Israel Book Shop).

Blending anything thicker side is generally problematic and more often than not, I wind up dumping everything into a bowl and mixing it by hand.

“One minute I sing a song and they go back in time to their youth.”

“…his neshamah reached out to us to have the zechus of Torah learning to take with him on his final journey.”

It’s hard not to be intrigued by recipes with names like Thanksgiving Stuffing Soup, Braised Chicken with Rhubarb Gravy and Vidalia Onion Fritters with Sambal Yogurt Dip.

A graduate of Rhode Island’s Johnson & Wales College of Culinary Arts, the very personable Massin came to NoBo with both a solid education and years of experience at Mike’s Bistro and The Prime Grill.

Printed from: http://www.jewishpress.com/sections/food/kashrut-scene/gefilte-fish-gone-hip-at-the-gefilteria/2013/01/18/

Scan this QR code to visit this page online: