Sam’s Corner Café
6560 Poplar Ave.
Germantown, Tenn., 38138
901-310-5010
Open weekdays 7 a.m.-7 p.m.
Online order available.
Kashrus: Vaad of Memphis
Restaurateurs that succeed in today’s challenging kosher marketplace understand they must excel in bringing to the local customer one of two experiences: One, an authentic regional experience – food that truly speaks to the locals. In this case the food has got to be “just as good as mama makes it.” Or two, food that brings something fresh and new that will attract the locals’ curiosity. If you’re a newcomer in a town that’s known worldwide for its southern charm and unique music style, and even more so for its world class barbecue, perhaps you place your bets for culinary success on the latter. Either way, welcome to Memphis, and welcome to Sam’s Corner Café.
Located in the Memphis Jewish Community Center, Sam’s Corner is the only game in town. Thankfully its chef and owner gained his cooking credentials from Toast, one of the popular kosher eateries in Los Angeles, and understands popular Jewish dining from growing up in Israel. When the MJCC sent out a nationwide casting call to reimagine its in-house dining facility, Sam answered the call.
But first, a few words about Memphis, Tenn. (yes, New Yorkers, there are Jews there). The Orthodox community is small but close-knit, centered around two main shuls: Young Israel of Memphis and Baron Hirsch Congregation. Back in the 1950s Baron Hirsch, with over 1,000 families, had grown to be the largest shul in North America. Memphis is a city that oozes southern charm, and besides being the birthplace of the blues music genre, it’s also known for its barbecue. This tradition has not been lost on the Jewish locals, who for many years have had their own barbecue tradition, including the ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest and Festival, now in its 33rd year. Nearly 40 grill masters competed in last year’s event. Southern Barbecue is a technique that requires using only the finest meat products mixed with dry rubs and seasonings to bring out the best flavor. The meat is cooked at low temperatures (200-225 degrees) over a long period of time. Once cooked the meat is left to rest long enough for the natural juices and flavors to distribute throughout the meat. While experimenting with sauces and seasonings are accepted, there is no compromise in southern barbecue on getting the fundamentals right.
Chef and owner Shmuel Edri was born and raised in Haifa, Israel. He arrived in America on September 11, 2011. “I had only planned to go on a big trip with my friends to America, but as we say, “Make plans, make G-d laugh,” Edri shared. “I arrived in America with $400 and no suitcase – I lost it somehow. Second, I missed the flight from New York to Los Angeles, because customs detained me thinking I might be some type of terrorist.” Perhaps if they’d have tried some of Edri’s food, they would have ushered him into first class.
Edri opted not to compete with the well-established Memphis barbecue scene, opting to focus on tried-and-true favorites any Jewish-American family would love, including burgers and fish. “We also have sushi. My wife said that it would be popular, and she was right.” The sushi is handled by staff specifically trained in making sushi-to-order. Sam’s Corner’s menu features no less than 15 sushi roll combinations including the ever popular California, Tuna, Veggie and Spicy Salmon Rolls, $9-15.
I started my meal with two of his most popular platters, Ben’s Breakfast Burger (served with, avocado, pastrami, pickles, grilled onion, lettuce and tomato on a brioche bun, fries included) $23, and the Sizzling Salmon Noodles (6-ounce fillet served on top of noodles with fresh cut vegetables and teriyaki sauce) $24.50. On the Breakfast Burger, Edri explained, “I wanted to give the customers an opportunity to create their own dish, so we made a contest, and a young boy named Ben, who just had his bar mitzvah, won the challenge.” Edri should be careful, as Ben could easily open his own burger joint competition someday. The burger was moist and lightly seasoned, and its vegetables firm and fresh. With the addition of a healthy-sized plate of fries (regular or sweet potato), my meal was more than enough to leave me feeling full and satisfied. The salmon presentation was a real joy, coming out on a sizzling hotplate atop a generous bed of vegetables. “It’s one of the popular dishes that we have,” Edri confirmed. “It comes sizzling, it’s a mix of cabbage zucchini, cooked together with sauteed noodles in sweet teriyaki.” I inquired regarding the presentation; the salmon perched on a little mini mountain of goodness. Was this the way he ate salmon in Israel? “The presentation is from Toast, but I gave it my own twist,” he beamed.
I certainly had time to try other items on the menu as meals were served at a brisk pace – both platters landing on my table within 10 minutes. The only problem – I was too full to eat another bite. Sam’s Corner’s portions were simply generous, much like the staff that prepared and served me. A fun note – Memphis doesn’t have a 13th Ave or Lee Ave like in Brooklyn, N.Y., so it’s clear that MJCC is the social center of the community. The energy of the clean and modern recreation and visual arts complex mixed nicely with the vibe at the restaurant, conveniently located near the main entrance. One community center patron walking by – impressed with how much food was arranged on my table, and assuming this represented my regular eating habits, chided me, yelling “Good luck with all that!” I played along promising to meet him in the gym to work it off later.
Other must-try items at Sam’s Corner include the Fresh Green Salad (green apple, strawberry and avocado served on a bed of spring mix, romaine and arugula leaves with homemade balsamic vinegar dressing and honey granola on top) $16; the Pargiot (Chicken) Plate (grilled chicken thigh on open flame served with Caesar salad and sweet potato fries) $23; and the Humus Falafel Platter (humus, falafel balls and pita) $12 – to name a few. There are also several side dishes and desserts.
Sam’s Corner is a place with a lot of good food and a lot of heart. In a city full of southern charm, you’re sure to end the night feeling happy. If you prefer to feel the blue(s), however, you’ll have to head downtown to Beale Street.
